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By Judith Anastasia
We flew to Lima, Peru (at sea level) and the next day caught
a flight to Cuzco at 3326 meters above sea level (approximately
10,000 feet). It is prudent to spend several days in Cuzco
eating very lightly, chewing coca leaves and drinking coca
tea in an effort to avoid altitude sickness. There is much
to see and do in Cuzco but take it easy or you will suffer
the ravages of headache and nausea.
We were allowed to store anything we did not need on our
trek at the hotel in Cuzco. A van took us from Cuzco to Ollantaytambo
with sightseeing stops along the way. After a restful night's
sleep, we went by van to the start of our trek at Chilca,
kilometer 82. Although the trail is only 33 kilometers long
(about 20 miles), it crosses over three high passes, one of
which is Dead Woman's Pass at 4200 meters (13,776 feet). There
are relatively flat sections but the trail is often steep.
It is in excellent condition but very crowded with trekkers
and their guides and porters. There are many different types
of vegetation, incredible ruins and views (looking down on
a rainbow), Inca cemeteries and terraces built for farming,
caves and a cloud forest.
We were on the trail for three nights. You must camp in designated
spots. On the fourth day after a very steep descent from 11,950
feet to 7,872 feet (much of it on ancient steps built by the
Incas), we reached the Gate of the Sun and had our first view
of Machu Picchu below us and the switchbacking trail we would
walk to get there.
When we reached Machu Picchu (the Lost City of the Incas),
we spent several hours exploring South America's most spectacular
archaeological site before going eight kilometers by bus to
overnight at a hotel in Aguas Calientes where there are natural
thermal springs.
We did this trek in November, 2001. Temperatures can drop
below freezing at night and it may even rain during the dry
season (May to September). The wet season (January to April)
can be tough hiking with slippery trails and muddy campsites.
We were very lucky having only a light rain for a few hours
on one day. We obtained our own international flights. Our
tour took care of arranging all domestic transportation and
accommodations, as well as hiring our guide, cook and eight
porters for the trek.
We had a tiny congenial group — the two of us and two
fun 40-year old women. Our tents, including a latrine tent,
were pitched and taken down for us each day; all our meals
(including tea time) were supplied and prepared for us on
the trail; we were given warm water for washing up morning
and night and we only needed to carry a light day pack when
trekking. What more could a body ask for?
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