By Judith Anastasia
We flew to Lima, Peru (at sea level) and the next day caught a flight to Cuzco at 3326 meters above sea level (approximately 10,000 feet). It is prudent to spend several days in Cuzco eating very lightly, chewing coca leaves and drinking coca tea in an effort to avoid altitude sickness. There is much to see and do in Cuzco but take it easy or you will suffer the ravages of headache and nausea.

We were allowed to store anything we did not need on our trek at the hotel in Cuzco. A van took us from Cuzco to Ollantaytambo with sightseeing stops along the way. After a restful night's sleep, we went by van to the start of our trek at Chilca, kilometer 82. Although the trail is only 33 kilometers long (about 20 miles), it crosses over three high passes, one of which is Dead Woman's Pass at 4200 meters (13,776 feet). There are relatively flat sections but the trail is often steep. It is in excellent condition but very crowded with trekkers and their guides and porters. There are many different types of vegetation, incredible ruins and views (looking down on a rainbow), Inca cemeteries and terraces built for farming, caves and a cloud forest.

We were on the trail for three nights. You must camp in designated spots. On the fourth day after a very steep descent from 11,950 feet to 7,872 feet (much of it on ancient steps built by the Incas), we reached the Gate of the Sun and had our first view of Machu Picchu below us and the switchbacking trail we would walk to get there.

When we reached Machu Picchu (the Lost City of the Incas), we spent several hours exploring South America's most spectacular archaeological site before going eight kilometers by bus to overnight at a hotel in Aguas Calientes where there are natural thermal springs.

We did this trek in November, 2001. Temperatures can drop below freezing at night and it may even rain during the dry season (May to September). The wet season (January to April) can be tough hiking with slippery trails and muddy campsites. We were very lucky having only a light rain for a few hours on one day. We obtained our own international flights. Our tour took care of arranging all domestic transportation and accommodations, as well as hiring our guide, cook and eight porters for the trek.

We had a tiny congenial group — the two of us and two fun 40-year old women. Our tents, including a latrine tent, were pitched and taken down for us each day; all our meals (including tea time) were supplied and prepared for us on the trail; we were given warm water for washing up morning and night and we only needed to carry a light day pack when trekking. What more could a body ask for?

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